It's like thick plastic and not bendable anymore. When it's dry you'll see that the mask is now no longer like paper. You can put on several layers to make it even stronger. Only put this on the inside, not on the outside! Be sure you cover every part of the mask and let it dry. Also soak them with resin and put them on the mask. I used fibreglass mat (300g/sqm) and cut it into small pieces. Now it's time to strengthen it with fibreglass. When the first layers of resin are dry, you'll notice that the paper now feels like thin plastic. When the resin is dry it will be quite hard to get out any deformations. Let the resin soak the paper and be careful not to deform your piece and keep it in shape. I prefer to do this in two steps: Outside - let it dry - inside.
So when you've mixed your resin, put it all over the mask. wood glue mixed with water or even flour mixed with milk, but I don't find these strong enough to get the same result as I got with epoxy or polyester resin.) (Resin is not the cheapest stuff, so I've read about some alternatives to resin, e.g. Exactly mix the Hardener and the Resin like the guide says! Otherwise it won't harden at all. If you decide to use epoxy resin (doesn't smells so bad like polyester resin) you have to be very careful with the measurements. Read the manufactor's instructions on the resin and use it just like they say. Also you should cover the ground/table with newspapers or a plastic foil so your terrace, table or wherever you're going to work on your piece is resined, too. You also should put on some old clothes here, you won't get resin out of your clothes and I bet you don't want the brand new shirt that you love so much to be ruined. So just use it outside and maybe even use a respiratory mask and rubber gloves while working. These are some serious chemicals and espacially polyester resin develops fumes which will definitely do no good to your health. On this mask I used polyester resin, but I really recommend to use Epoxy resin.īe careful here and only work with this outside! Don't use it inside of your flat. To harden the paper, you have to resin your piece. Once you have your basic papermodel, you want it to be really solid. When printing, cutting and glueing is done and you've got all the pieces put together, you'll have a polygonal Dragon Priest. Cut out the parts with scissors or a x-acto knife, fold them on the printed lines (there are two types of folds in pepakura: mountain folds (-, folded down: ^) and valley folds (-.-.-, folded up \/) and glue the whole thing together. Otherwise the built is likely to be deformed or will just collapse. I think you should at least use 150g/sqm or even heavier.
But if you're really into puzzles and stuff, you can try building it without the IDs (but seriously, don't! I once made that mistake and it took me hours to find where each part belonged.)įor printing you should use thick paper, not regular 80g/sqm. This will add some small numbers on the edges and will help you a lot while glueing together all the parts. I recommend to turn on the " Edge ID" before printing. You can even see where each single part belongs in the model, if you put the cursor on it. Just open the file and you'll see the 3D-model on the left, and the single parts on the right. To open and print this file you'll need the freeware " Pepakura viewer".
Pepakura dragon full#
I got mine from a thread full of Pepakura-files for Skyrimstuff at ().
Pepakura dragon download#
First of all, you have to find a paper model file you like and download it.
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